Field Notes

There is a certain kind of wine bar that doesn't want to be found. No sign, or a sign for a business that closed in 1987. A door you'd walk past a hundred times. Inside: forty seats, a chalkboard, someone's uncle deciding what you're drinking tonight. These are the ones worth building a day around: LISBON Sol e Pesca, on Rua Nova do Carvalho, is a former fishing-tackle shop that now pours Portuguese wine alongside the best tinned fish of your life — conservas on bread, done

A 3,976-metre volcano, a group of friends, porters who put us all to shame — and a front-row seat to an eruption. I'll be honest about Acatenango: it's fun and games until it very suddenly isn't, and then it becomes one of the best things you'll ever do. I did it in January 2024 — dry season, the right call — a group of friends plus a few strangers who joined our trek and weren't strangers by the top. It starts innocently: a van out of Antigua, a farmhouse breakfast, walking