Skip the Place du Tertre crush for the Montmartre two streets away — Coeur Coffee on rue Ravignan, La Maison Rose, LE 975, and how to do Sacré-Cœur properly. We know a place. Everyone climbs to Place du Tertre and stops there. Keep walking. There are two Montmartres, running side by side, and most people only ever meet one. The first is the one on the postcards: the painters' square, the portrait easels, the crêpe stands, the coach groups shuffling between them. The second st

There is a certain kind of wine bar that doesn't want to be found. No sign, or a sign for a business that closed in 1987. A door you'd walk past a hundred times. Inside: forty seats, a chalkboard, someone's uncle deciding what you're drinking tonight. These are the ones worth building a day around: LISBON Sol e Pesca, on Rua Nova do Carvalho, is a former fishing-tackle shop that now pours Portuguese wine alongside the best tinned fish of your life — conservas on bread, done