One hour of driving, two entirely different ideas of Hawaii. Everyone has an opinion about Waikiki, and most of them are wrong. Yes, it's built up. Yes, there's a Cheesecake Factory. But at 6am, before the towels come out, Waikiki is one of the great city beaches of the world — longboarders on glassy rollers, Diamond Head going pink, old men swimming their morning laps. Rent a board from a beach boy stand and take the slowest, friendliest wave of your life. Eat a plate lunch.