There is a certain kind of wine bar that doesn't want to be found. No sign, or a sign for a business that closed in 1987. A door you'd walk past a hundred times. Inside: forty seats, a chalkboard, someone's uncle deciding what you're drinking tonight. These are the ones worth building a day around: LISBON Sol e Pesca, on Rua Nova do Carvalho, is a former fishing-tackle shop that now pours Portuguese wine alongside the best tinned fish of your life — conservas on bread, done