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Two Montmartres: where to eat and drink on the quiet side
Skip the Place du Tertre crush for the Montmartre two streets away — Coeur Coffee on rue Ravignan, La Maison Rose, LE 975, and how to do Sacré-Cœur properly. We know a place. Everyone climbs to Place du Tertre and stops there. Keep walking. There are two Montmartres, running side by side, and most people only ever meet one. The first is the one on the postcards: the painters' square, the portrait easels, the crêpe stands, the coach groups shuffling between them. The second st
Sep 237 min read


New York doesn't need you to plan. It needs you to walk.
The city rewards stamina, not itineraries. Every first-timer makes the same mistake in New York: they build an itinerary. Times Square, Empire State, a musical, a checklist. New York is not a checklist city. It is a walking city, maybe the walking city, and the whole point is what happens between the landmarks. So: pick a neighbourhood per day, not a list of sights. One day downtown — start with a bacon-egg-and-cheese from any deli that looks busy, walk the West Village while
Aug 262 min read


Rio, then Ilha Grande: the city and its escape hatch
Three days in the loudest beautiful city on earth. Then an island with no cars at all. RIO is the only megacity on earth where the geography upstages the skyline. Granite mountains straight out of the sea, forest running through the middle of town, and beaches that function as the city's living room. Do the icons — Christ early morning, Sugarloaf for sunset (that order matters) — then live like a carioca. Start the day at Ipanema around Posto 9, drink coconut water straight f
Aug 262 min read
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