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New York doesn't need you to plan. It needs you to walk.
The city rewards stamina, not itineraries. Every first-timer makes the same mistake in New York: they build an itinerary. Times Square, Empire State, a musical, a checklist. New York is not a checklist city. It is a walking city, maybe the walking city, and the whole point is what happens between the landmarks. So: pick a neighbourhood per day, not a list of sights. One day downtown — start with a bacon-egg-and-cheese from any deli that looks busy, walk the West Village while
Aug 262 min read


Rio, then Ilha Grande: the city and its escape hatch
Three days in the loudest beautiful city on earth. Then an island with no cars at all. RIO is the only megacity on earth where the geography upstages the skyline. Granite mountains straight out of the sea, forest running through the middle of town, and beaches that function as the city's living room. Do the icons — Christ early morning, Sugarloaf for sunset (that order matters) — then live like a carioca. Start the day at Ipanema around Posto 9, drink coconut water straight f
Aug 262 min read


Climbing Acatenango: the hardest, best thing I've done while travelling
A 3,976-metre volcano, a group of friends, porters who put us all to shame — and a front-row seat to an eruption. I'll be honest about Acatenango: it's fun and games until it very suddenly isn't, and then it becomes one of the best things you'll ever do. I did it in January 2024 — dry season, the right call — a group of friends plus a few strangers who joined our trek and weren't strangers by the top. It starts innocently: a van out of Antigua, a farmhouse breakfast, walking
Aug 263 min read
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